Posts Tagged ‘natural hair’
The Love Affair is Over
by Michele George

The Love Affair is OverOnce upon a time you enjoyed your luxurious loose coils, ringlets, fuzz and frizz. But, now after months and months of deciding which hairstyle to prepare for after your weekend wash do you do: banded hair, Bantu knotted hair, braided hair, braid out hair, twisted hair, twist out hair, half braided, half twisted, half braided, half out, coils, up-dos, afro puffs, extensions, straight hair, flat hair, curled hair? You’re just plum tarred and feathered with all this endless concern about your hair. Once upon a time you enjoyed trying all the different hair products with each and every hairstyle, testing them on a wet set or dry set etc. But, now, the love affair is over. You are tired. You’ve come to a crossroads.

Do I go back to the creamy crack aka chemical relaxer?
or
Do I do another BC aka Big Cut?
or
Do I travel into unchartered territory and lock it down?

Many with locks come to this crossroads and it can be a difficult to decide what to do. With conviction you may have gone natural, determined to never pollute your crown with toxic chemicals again. Or naively, you may have progressed into the unchartered waters of natural hair to find that you love the versatility of your hair unadulterated. But that time has come and gone. Now, the resentment towards your hair has built. You didn’t plan on having almost all your waking, free hours on the weekend spent in marathon detangling sessions before washing, during washing and after washing, then deal with the challenge of styling your hair and setting your hair. By the time you are free from your hair, it’s Monday! Time to do it all over again. And, let’s say you did a vicious twist that sets all weekend with fierce definition and shine and perfect coils at the end. Then it rains. Poof. Just like in your relaxed days, you’re back at square one, running from the rain, humidity and frizz as you’re hair morphs back into a fuzz ball. So what do you do? You feel yourself wanting to fuss at your hair for not cooperating. You’re really not liking this new feeling welling up from the inside and you; and, you want to be in love with your hair all over again. So, you look at the scissors and think:

Should I? Nah.

Then, you think about taking a quick drive to the drug store for your old mainstay Dark N Lovely™, Nah.

Then you remember there is a third option. Locks!

You wonder if locks are for you. You have never considered locks before and you feel like a newbie natural all over again. There’s so much information you don’t know locks, where do you begin? You never intended to lock, in fact, you didn’t’ go natural to lock and locks were not a part of the plan. But, locks sure beat options A and B. It took two years to grow all of this hair and you sure as heck couldn’t go back to the crack now that you KNOW what it is. So, you begin the process, researching on the art of locking.

So, here you are along this natural journey, every weekend, week and day spent lamenting over your hair and out of no where, locks have chosen you. And, if you decide to concede, you soon learn that locking is a process that is about loosing self and self control. It’s a journey about learning what your hair wants to do versus what you want to do with your hair. Not only are the styling habits different for locked hair; but, the mental shift is nerve wracking. You wonder what do you do if you aren’t worrying about your hair? You’ve spent almost every waking hour in the planning process for your hair. Your hair needs you, you rationalize. But, no, it doesn’t, you need it. You’ve become dependent on your hair. And, locking would require you to leave your hair alone and let it frizz and get wild without your intervention. You wonder if you can do it. You wonder if you are strong enough to resist the temptation of resetting your hair when the frizz sets in. From perms to natural hair, your whole day revolves around your hair. The thought of discovering who you are without this concern is daunting; yet, it is challenging and empowering leading to growth along a path to a new, exciting glorious journey to self -realization if you decide to travel on the journey to locks.

If you see yourself in any of these scenerios, it may be time for you to lock your hair down. There are other physical signs that your hair may be ready to lock:

  • Your hair stays in tangled in knots when left loose
  • Your hair continues to split and tear
  • Your hair tangles easily, even with good conditioner on it
  • Your hair grows in protective styles, and looses length from damage when worn loose
  • Your hair dries out easily when worn loose
  • Your hair begins to matt on its own when worn in any style
  • Your hair does not like to be manipulated, and will shed and tear easily
  • Your hair sheds a lot when worn loose
  • Your hair soaks up moisture like a sponge
  • Your hair matts when washing

If your love affair is over and you decide that locking is journey that you want to take there are plenty of resources, forums and albums of lockers out there that are willing and ready to help you. Just like going natural is a process, locking is too. The good part of locking after being a loose natural, is you have already explored the beautiful creation of your hair and all of its textures. You have explored its likes and dislikes. You have worn many products and hairstyles and now you are ready to embark upon another journey of self exploration that will take you to another level as you put self aside and regain the art of self exploration, engaging in other journeys that need your hands, mind, body and time.

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The Biology of Hair: Interesting Facts
by Laquita

Second to bone marrow, hair is the fastest growing tissue in the body. Our hair grows out of our skin from a root which is inside of a follicle. The hair does not grow straight out, but at an angle and usually clockwise. Forehead hairlines are determined genetically, and seem to recede as the hair gets thinner. During it’s growth stage, hair grows about 0.3 millimeters per day. The average head produces 35 meters of hair every day.

The average scalp has roughly 100,000 hair follicles. On average, each follicle grows a new hair around 20 times. The average head produces 35 meters of hair every day. Over the years, the number of follicles that are capable of growing hair decreases and is especially noticeable on the top of the head. Hair follicles consist of living tissue. The hair shaft, the fiber that grows from our scalp, is made up of a hard protein called keratin (same material as our fingernails), which are cells that are not living. Therefore, if the hair shaft is damaged it can not heal.

The hair shaft is made up of two or three layers. The cuticle, cortex and/or the medulla. The Cuticle is the outermost part of the hair shaft which protects that hair from damage and is made up of flattened overlapping cells. A healthy cuticle, controls the water content of the hair fiber and imparts a shiny appearance to the hair. The cuticle also protects the inner, softer tissue called the cortex.

The Cortex is the middle portion, and makes up most of the hair shaft. It is made up of proteins that twist like a curly cord, and pigment that give the natural color to our hair and special qualities like elasticity and curl. The cortex is made up of strands of keratin, lying along the length of the hair. When the cuticle is damaged, the cortex is exposed and it’s fibers fray like rope strands, resulting in split ends. The cortex can not heal itself and therefore the ends must be cut off.

The Medulla is the inner most part of the hair shaft. It is a soft, spongy tissue that exists generally in coarse hair versus fine. When the medulla is present in human hair, its fragmented or trace.

Sebum is a natural hair oil that is produced from glands adjacent to the hair follicle. Sebum fills the gaps between the cuticle cells and keeps our hair shiny and flexible. Sebum also causes dirt to attract to hair. Sebum spreads from the scalp to roots, but in curly hair it doesn’t spread all the way to the tips. Finger scalp massages, moving your fingers from roots to ends, and the use of a wide tooth comb both help to spread sebum.

The hairs on an adult scalp do not grow in unison. They all grow at different stages within the growth cycle. If all hair did grow at the same stage, we would go temporarily bald from time to time. Anagen, catagen and telogen are the three phases of hair growth. The Anagen phase, which is the growth phase, lasts about 1000 days or more. 85% to 90% of our hair is in this active phase at any time.

On average, hair grows about 1 cm every 28 days (about half an inch a month). It should take about three years for hair to reach shoulder-length and seven years for waist length. Some people have shorter anagen phases, therefore only people with long anagen phases can expect to grow their hair waist length. This phase also gets shorter the older we get.

The Catagen phase lasts about 10 days. 3% to 5% of our hair is in this intermediate/transitional phase at any time. During this phase, the hair shrinks in size and is disconnected from the blood supply, and the base of the hair follicle moves towards the surface of the skin.

The Telogen phase lasts about 100 days. 10% to 15% of our hair is in this shedding/resting phase. About 25 to100 telogen hairs are shed normally each day (those with a solid, white material at the root). It is normal to lose 100 hairs per day from the scalp. Remember, at any given time each hair is at a different stage in the growth cycle. The hair cycle for each individual hair is influenced by the levels of various hormones – androgens and oestrogens – in the blood.

Hair Fact Links: http://www.exploratorium.edu/exploring/hair/hair_2.html, http://www.hairinformation.com/hair-growth-system/hair-shaft.shtml, http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_23.htm, http://www.rapunzelsdelight.com/

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Kitchen Cabinet Hair Recipes
by Laquita
Most of us have heard of using apple cider vinegar and baking soda for cleaning our hair and scalp, but there’s also other ‘foods’ that can be used in replace of expensive, store-bought products that condition, strengthen, and restore shine. Check out the following recipes that incorporate eggs, bananas, and even molasses.
Apple Cider Vinegar Apple Cider Vinegar – ACV
ACV contains alpha hydroxy acids, which help dissolve fatty deposits on the skin’s surface. It can help with itchy scalp, product build-up and detangling. ACV also helps balance pH levels in your hair – high pH levels (the amount of acid/akaline) damage hair.

ACV Recipe- 1 tablespoon or 1 capful of ACV to one cup of warm (not hot) water. Depending on hair length, you may need to double the amount. Pour on after washing as a final rinse and don’t rinse out, then follow with a conditioner or leave-in (as your hair dries the vinegar smell goes away), or you can also pour on as a pre-wash treatment.

For itchy, scalp treatment- Mix 1 cup of ACV in 1 cup of warm water. Pour mixture on hair, let sit for 10 to 20 mins and wash as usual. You can also use water infused with herbs (such as chamomile or green tea) with this recipe.

Both mixtures can be used on braids and extension styles as well.

Baking Soda Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
Natural exfoliate, softens and smoothes skin. Removes product build-up/residue. Baking soda also has the ability to neutralize other substances it comes in contact with that are acidic.

Scalp Wash- Mix water and baking soda to make a paste. Massage the paste on your scalp and rinse well with warm water. Follow with a conditioner.

Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda with your shampoo and wash as usual. You can also add 1 tablespoon of baking soda to your ACV rinse mixture to use as a pre-shampoo rinse. Pour on mixture, massage scalp and rinse.

MolassesMolasses
Source of iron, calcium, potassium, magnesium, copper, and manganese.

Molasses users claim that it adds shine, softens, strengthens and defines their natural hair color. Many people have testified that ingesting molasses has cured ailments from arthritis to cancer. Although at present there are no medical studies to prove such testimonies, some studies have shown it’s effectiveness on lowering blood pressure and helping to cure depression.

Molasses Recipes (from Black Voices Hair Talk)
Pre-Treatment- Wet hair and apply 1/4 cup of molasses from root to tip. Leave on for at least 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Then shampoo and condition. Hair should feel soft and shiny.

Deep Conditioning- Mix 1/4 cup of molasses with an equal part of a thick oil, i.e. olive or avocado oil, and add to a conditioner. Apply to hair, concentrating on the ends and let penetrate for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and style.

For best results, use Blackstrap molasses, which is available at most grocery and natural food stores.

Apple Cider Vinegar Eggs
Contain proteins and nutrients. Protein strengthens hair, and the nutrients condition and add volume and shine.

Eggs Recipes- Beat 1 egg and massage into your hair and scalp. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes. Rinse with cool or lukewarm water (using hot water will make it difficult to rinse) . The shampoo and condition.

Shiny Soft Hair Treatment (from Care2.com)
1 avocado (1/2 for shorter hair)
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon olive oil

Apply mixture to your hair, let it sit for about 30 minutes or longer, then shampoo and condition as usual.

Added Protein to your Conditioner- Mix your favorite conditioner with 1 egg yolk and ½ teaspoon of olive oil, let sit for about 10 to 20 minutes. Rinse, wash and condition as usual. *Applicator brush can be used to apply mix to your hair*

Apple Cider Vinegar Bananas- Rich in potassium, natural oils, carbohydrates and vitamins. Helps soften and shine and protects the hair’s natural elasticity i.e. strengthens, and controls dandruff.

Simple Banana Honey Hair Mask- Mix 1 banana with 1 two 2 tablespoons of honey (longer hair – 2 bananas may be needed). Make sure you puree the banana so you don’t have problems rinsing. Apply to hair. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes. Rinse with warm water and shampoo as usual.

I’ve seen tons of variations of this recipe; with added mayonnaise or plain yogurt, and added oils such as almond or olive. Feel free to tweak recipes by adding your personal favorite ingredients.

Sources and More Info:
Care2.com – ACV
Apple Cider Vinegar Benefits
The Beauty Brains – Baking Soda
Molasses – BV Hair Talk
Health Diaries – Blackstrap Molasses
Ehow – Eggs
Care2.com – Avocado Egg Treatment
Health Top 54u – Bananas

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Posted in march10issue1 | 3 Comments »

The Natural Hair Waves (Natural Hair Then and Now)
by Laquita

In the 1900s, natural hair wearers started to straighten their natural tresses for many reasons, whether it was the belief that straighter hair was more manageable, or economic/mobility reasons (i.e. get into better schools and/or obtain better jobs, or simply to look ‘hip’).  During this time, the ‘conk’ made with potatoes, eggs, and lye became a popular method for men to straighten their hair. The women wore press-n-curl type styles such as curls combed into waves or pageboys.

In the mid 1900s, black entertainers began to wear short un-straightened styles such as Muhammad Ali formerly Cassius Clay, and Isaac Hayes who sported the bald look. Also, Malcolm X and the Nation of Islam began teaching that whites had taught blacks to hate themselves by convincing them that all things African, kinky hair included, were bad.

These teachings along with the rise of nationalists, integrationists and the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s and early 1970s, gave birth to The Black Power Movement, which emphasized racial pride. Through this movement, the creation of black political and cultural institutions began to flourish focusing on promoting and advancing black collective interests, values and culture. For many during this era, wearing an Afro, represented freedom from white oppression.

The movement primarily responsible for the Afro’s popularity is the “Black is Beautiful” movement. The “Black is Beautiful” movement encouraged blacks to feel good about how they looked, and attempted to undue the notion that their natural traits were ugly. It encouraged black women and men to embrace their natural features, by stop straightening their hair, and attempting to lighten or bleach their skin.

Although along with wearing the Afro, this new generation of natural hair wearers also wore cornrows, braids and headwraps called gelees, many still wore straight styles and the chemical straightener businesses was still in stride. By the early 70s, the Black Power movement began to lose momentum, and the Afro was no longer a political statement, but became just a hairstyle; it could be seen everywhere on whites and blacks alike.

A half century later, natural hair again is on the rise. Although many suggest it’s just a passing phase like the Afro worn in the mid-60s and early 70s, wearing ones hair natural has been synonymous with Vegetarianism and Going Green. Unlike the 1900s, today’s natural hair wearers range from Super models, college professors and CEOs. And likewise, they wear their hair natural for various reasons, they could be political, a resurgence of embracing ones natural beauty, consciousness of the dangers of chemical straighteners, overall health, or just as a style.

But for whatever reason, locs, twists, TWAs (teenie-weenie-afros), bantu knots, freeform and curly fros, and cornrowed styles can be spotted everywhere from the clubs to corporate settings. True-life horror stories of chemical burns and permanent hair loss, as well as scientific studies on the dangers of chemical straighteners have enlightened many who have pledged to wear their hair in it’s natural state, both black and whites alike.

Today’s natural hair wearers have many more resources available as well such as more natural based styling aids, how-to books and videos, and hundreds of styles to choose from to help them maintain their natural hair. For these reasons, unlike the passing phase of the Afro – today’s natural hairstyles instead of fading are here to stay.

Source:  Hair Story : Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America Ayana Byrd and Lori L. Tharps

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Things that Natural Hair Hates
by Laquita

Things That Natural Hair HatesWe come across so many articles on things that are ‘good’ for natural hair, how about taking a look at things that are not good – things that natural hair hates?  Here are the tops on my list.

Fine Toothed Combs and Bristle Brushes – Using fine tooth combs and bristle brushes on natural hair will definitely break it off. Although some choose to use fine tooth combs for parting, be sure to have plenty of wide tooth ones handy and still remember to start at the ends and work your way up to detangle, preferably while hair is wet with conditioner to give it slip. If you choose to use a brush to detangle, use one with smooth nylon pins, many naturals use the Denman D4.

Cotton/Wool- Avoid sleeping on cotton pillow cases, and using cotton scarves or head wraps which snag and break off hair. Use silk or satin instead. If you can’t resist that cute cotton scarf, hat, or head wrap, don’t worry, just wear them over a thin silk or satin scarf or cap. Also, in the winter, do the same for your wool and heavy cotton hats. Those with long hair also be conscious of your hair rubbing against cotton and wool collars and use a silk or satin scarf as a barrier.

Hot Heat- This may be obvious when it comes to heat styling with electric and stove top straightening devices, but many forget about the damaging effects of the sun. Protect your hair from the sun, spritz, and refresh with simple water/eo mixtures and seal with oil. Did you know that shea butter and olive oil offer natural UV protection as well? Water babies should also remember to always rinse after getting out of the chlorine filled pool.

Impatience and Heavy Hands- If you want to maintain healthy hair and retain length, when it comes to taking care of natural hair, you must be patient and gentle. Schedule time to pamper your hair, so you wont have to rush when styling. This way, you will avoid yanking and pulling. And, of course, always use a gentle hand. A gentle hand is an ally of healthy natural hair, try detangling with your hands first before using a comb or brush.

Harsh Preservatives and Synthetics- Read the ingredient list before purchasing products for your hair. My pet peeve when it comes to ingredients is the pore clogging, moisture blocking mineral oil (aka petrolatum, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax). I can’t pick up a product off the beauty supply shelves that doesn’t have mineral oil or one of it’s aliases as the very first ingredient.

Other ingredients to avoid are sulfates (i.e. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, SLS, and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, SLES) which are hash detergents, cones (i.e. Trimethicone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, etc) which deposit plastic coating on the hair shaft and are also moisture blockers. Parabens are used as preservatives, but may mutate and cause free radicals when exposed to UV rays.

Alcohol based products- Avoid using alcohol based styling gel which is drying. Alcohol added to products also stimulates the penetration of parabens into the skin. Natural ingredients are the best alternatives.

For more information on chemicals check out: www.cosmeticsdatabase.com.

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